Home Made painting Supplies

Here is a painting box I have made several people liked it and asked for me to make one for them, so I do.

This is a slightly older version, I am always tweaking it to get better results. I have put some pegs on the face of the box to give the panels or canvas extra support, It dosnt really need it those springy clamps hold it pretty tight enough, but it is handy. I also have made the try a lot deeper.

I also shellac my painting tray with bullseye spray shellac, I tape the box with painters tape first to protect parts from getting shellaced, then I give it a light coating first let it sit, it's pretty smelly stuff, then I spray it about six time after that just to build up a thick enough layer. Some spots seem to absorb shellac more than others, then I spray a couple of coats again about 24hrs later. So I use about a third of the spray can. to get that glassy layer that is ideal for painting on.

You have to be good to it though you cannot leave the paint on it over night as it will get stuck to it and well it will take a while to wear off, if it does. if you look after it it works great.

Here is how I make my boards. I cut the mdf board to size giving myself at least a 1/4inch space extra on each the edges and I cut the canvas with 1/2 " extra on all sides. This is my safety margin.

I then put the canvas upside down, making sure I have a piece of paper underneath and that there is no dust at all, I then hammer in pins on the edges of the canvas to some mdf 1/2" board. I put the put the board that will be glued on the canvas, which has also been cleaned of all dust, and I mark around it on the canvas for reference for when I put the freshly glued board back.

The only glue that I have used with any satisfaction is "Miracle Muck," you can get from Sourcetek it's a bit pricey but it is the best stuff and archival. I have used other glues and they just don't work as well.

I pour the glue on to get a nice coating, don't worry you will be spooning it back after. I have tried in the past to put a little on at a time, but the glue can dry pretty quick and it becomes a mess, so I just lay it on.

I then get my metal drywall scraper, plastic ones are rubbish, the edges get dented easily and then leave a trail or gouge in the glue you are trying to push around. I make sure that all areas are covered including the sides and especially those corners. I scrape off the excess and spoon it back into the bottle, I aim to get a nice thin even layer.
Don't leave too much glue on or it will go lumpy even if you use the sponge roller to even it. my rule of thumb is that if you can see the board through the glue at this stage it's too thin, and if it looks too runny it proberly is.

I then use my roller that I got from Home depot, it's a sponge one and I roller the glue all over to get an even coating all over the board, it gives the glue an orange peel consistancy again mindful of those edges and corners.

I then put the board carefully onto the canvas using my previous marks to help me align the board and carefully smooth it down and take out the pins. remember make sure there isn't any glue on your hands.

I flip it over and use my hard roller to remove any bubbles and push down the edges. Don't miss out this step in the process.

I then put a clean piece of brown wrapping paper which I prepared earlier to cover the now glued canvas protecting it against dust.

I then put another heavy flat board on top, I use 1/2" thick mdf board, make sure the surfaces of the heavy board are flat, free of dirt and blemishes, as this will dent your canvas. Then I find the heaviest things around the workspace and then put them on top of the board for at least 12 hours or overnight.

After it has cured I flip the boards upside down and put paper underneath, to protect the painted surface, I usually put a piece of scrap wood underneath the board and cut off the excess material.